Every autumn, as the vibrant green of the Icelandic landscape deepens to gold and rust, a tradition as old and rugged as the country itself takes place. This is the Réttir (pronounced ‘re-tier’), the annual sheep round-up. It’s a foundational event in Icelandic culture where farmers, families, and friends—on horseback and on foot—venture into the vast, wild highlands to gather the thousands of sheep that have been freely grazing all summer.
What follows is not just a task of animal husbandry; it’s a chaotic, joyful, and deeply communal celebration that lies at the very heart of rural Icelandic life.
A Tradition Etched in the Landscape
Since the time of the first Viking settlers, Icelandic sheep have been allowed to roam free, grazing on the lush, untouched vegetation of the country’s interior. This ancient practice results in hardy animals and is a key part of Iceland’s agricultural heritage. But before the harsh winter sets in, every last sheep must be brought back down to the lowland farms.
The round-up is a massive undertaking. Farmers from a single district, or hreppur, band together, spending days combing through remote valleys and mountainsides to find their flocks, guiding them down towards the lowlands in a great, flowing river of wool.
The Heart of the Réttir: The Sorting Pen
The culmination of the round-up happens at the rétt, a large, circular sorting pen with radiating, pie-slice-shaped pens, each one belonging to a different local farm. The massive, collected flock is driven into the central circle, creating a dizzying, bleating vortex of sheep.
This is where the real work—and the real fun—begins.
“The Réttir is more than just work, it is our festival,” says a local farmer, leaning against the wooden fence. “It is the day we see all our neighbors after the summer. We work together, we sing, we share a flask of Brennivín. It reminds us that we are all connected—to the land and to each other.”
Family members of all ages, from toddlers to grandparents, jump into the central pen. Their task is to find their farm’s sheep, identified by a specific earmark, and wrestle them into their designated family pen. It’s a chaotic, muddy, and exhilarating spectacle of organized mayhem, filled with laughter and shouting.
A Celebration of Community and Harvest
Once the sorting is complete, the celebration, known as the réttaball, begins. It’s a lively party with traditional Icelandic music, dancing, and hearty food that often lasts late into the night. It marks the end of the summer grazing season and the successful return of the flocks.
For travelers lucky enough to witness or even participate in a Réttir, it offers a rare and authentic glimpse into the soul of Iceland. It’s an experience that is not polished for tourists but is a living, breathing part of the cultural calendar. It’s a powerful reminder of the deep-rooted connection between the Icelandic people, their animals, and the wild, beautiful land they call home.
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